Justa Rollin’ Right Along


Keeping the Boiler Running All Summer

Monday, September 18th, 2006



When we first moved into our house, the was turned off. We had no idea why. The told us that it was turned off during inspection, so therefore he could not comment on the operation of it. What a great inspector! I guess it was too far of a reach for him to lean over on the wall and flick the little red switch on. Oh well…the was only 3 years old, so we gave it the benefit of the doubt.

The first day we moved in, I went downstairs and turned the red switch to the “On” position. In about 5 seconds, I heard it kick on and start right up. The thing worked great, but that is not what this post is about. This is a helpful post to all those poor innocent souls who have been told that they should keep their on all summer long to avoid on the inside. Let me explain.

Once I turned the on in the middle of August, I questioned the operation of it during the hottest months of the summer. It only provided heat for the house, since we are using an electric for everything else. I asked a few people if I needed to keep the running all summer and I got the same response: “Yes, it will if you don’t.” I didn’t ask too many questions because this same response came from a few different sources. Well, today, Paul and I were having a conversation about how I already spent $150 this summer from just keeping the warm. He said, “Well, that’s from up your water to use upstairs.” I told him that we have an electric for that. He asked why I don’t just shut off the then. He gave me a small chuckle, the way only Paul knows how to do, and explained that the won’t unless…well something about in the lines. He said it would be fine. I didn’t believe him, so I called my , Porco Energy. A woman answered the phone and I explained to her my concern. She then told me the exact thing Paul just told me, that I could turn the off during the summer!

Guess what I am doing when I get home tonight. I really wish someone told me this in May.

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Installing Lally Columns and Footings for Girder Beam

Tuesday, September 5th, 2006



One of the first things I noticed while looking at this house when we were “In the market” was the lousy shape of the basement. I heard that there was a little moisture on the floor (of which I will discuss the remedy to later), was informed by the that the fitted in between the floor (upstairs) was installed up side down (which I already fixed) and some of the needed to be finished. But one thing that really stood out to me was noticed when I was upstairs. In the living room and along the that runs the length of the house, there seemed to be a slight dip. Now, this really annoys me, not because I am a little on the anal side when it comes to this stuff, but because when I was renting an apartment a few years back, I actually had to use a rope tied from my to the corner leg of my desk to stop the chair from rolling to the center of the room when I was sitting on it. That is how crooked the floor was. After a year of that, you can understand why I was so angered by this little dip. I had to find out what was causing this.

I went downstairs and inspected the entire foundation. No . It looked fine. I went to and bought one of those laser . I mounted the on one side of the girder beam and ran it down the entire length…AH HA! The center of the beam towards the middle of the house was about an inch lower than the ends at the foundation. Looks like the original and settled a bit over time. Well, looks like I found my first project.

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I was also a little concerned about the column (all the way to the left of the picture above). It was installed on a . So that, along with two settled lally column , gave me a sense of urgency. I was in the mood for a challenge anyway. I decided to put in three additional and columns, this time to maximum . I would put one column in between each of the existing columns.

I dug the first hole closest to the foundation wall. I dug it about one and a half feet deep. Then, I constructed a form from cut 2″x10″s so it would create a footing of two feet wide by one foot high. Then, I hung a plum line from the just to make sure the form was exactly centered under the beam. I measured this about 10 times. I also made sure the form was perfectly level.

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Once again, I measured the actual form to make sure I cut everything correctly. I kept thinking that one day the building inspector was going to show up with a micrometer and inspect everything I did. I actually called the building department and they told me that this did not need to be inspected since I was adding in between the existing , and they met compliance back when the house was built.

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Building code calls for the footing to be one foot deep by two feet wide. Since I made a form from 2″x10″s, I needed to keep it about 2-3 inches off the ground. I accomplished this by propping the form up on some rocks that I dug up. Then, I measured to make sure I was perfect (again). You really need to do this a lot, it keeps shifting.

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When everything was absolutely perfect, I mixed a few bags of Quikrete Concrete Mix in my wheelbarrow. The form took a total of 7 bags. I smoothed it out real nice.

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I waited a day for it to set and then popped off the form.

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Now that is what I call footing. Let that sucker try to settle. One thing that I forgot to mention was that I sprayed water from my hose into the empty hole before I put the form in, then I let it dry. That let made sure the dirt was nice and compact. I also put in a few pieces of rebar for added strength. You don’t need to do that for a footing this small, but I didn’t want to take any chances.

The cement calls for a cure time of 7 days for a 2500psi compressive strength and a 28 cure time for the full 4000psi compressive strength. I have heard that concrete never stops curing. You also need to make sure the concrete stays moist to cure correctly. I am sure we all have seen a sidewalk that hasn’t cured properly…chipping and flaking to expose the gravel. To follow the instructions, I filled in around the footing, wet the top of it and layed some plastic over it. I wet the top every day for 7 days.

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I followed these same exact steps for the next two . The following photo is of the final completed footing.

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For the last column, I decided to try my hand at building a wall. There was room and how else is a new homeowner supposed to get experience? Those temporary columns on the right came out of there after I was done…they stayed on hold for a future project.

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Believe it or not, this wall is perfectly level in every direction. I filled the last two blocks in solid because that is where I put the weight of the .

After all the concrete in the was cured properly, I went to a local lumberyard, purchased three and had them cut to my measurements. These are the familiar maroon ones filled with concrete. I am not sure of the weight each one can support, but I have a feeling it is more than enough. I then purchased a 20 ton bottle jack and jacked up the area next to each existing column. When there was enough clearance from the plate on the top of the each column and the bottom of the , I slid in a quarter inch thick 6″x6″ square steel plate. I did this for each existing column as a spacer. I read somewhere that you should only jack up a house one eighth of an inch per day so the sheetrock upstairs won’t crack. I did a quarter inch per day because I was going to tackle the upstairs sheetrock later anyway. After about a week, and enough spacers to make the perfectly straight, as indicated by my laser, I jacked up the and put in each new lally column on each new footing. Each one had a great tight fit.

If you are planning a project like this, I really suggest you have a professional do it. You can get quite freaked out by all the squeaking that the wood does when it is jacked up.

In the photo below, you can see all of the in a row…the originals and the new ones. What a project! No more dip in the floor upstairs…nice and level. Just wait until I am done digging out the entire basement. Almost there…

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